ICE Peak Blog Mountaineering::: May 2010

Welsh Winter Climbing

to view a comprehensive list of routes that were climbed during my first winter: Click Here

to include photographs: Click Here

Cairngorms

I have just spent a week in the Cairngorms, which was a fantastic

experience. I was operating mostly in the northern corries & got

to sleep in a snow hole 1000m above sea level! I met some great

people and hope to return to Scotland soon.

'Left hand Branch' V *** & 'Right Hand Direct' III *

Steve Joynson & I climbed both 'Left hand Branch' V *** & 'Right Hand Direct' III * on Clogwyn Ddu. The conditions were favorable due to a freeze-thaw effect.

Tim Davies, Mike Byrne, and myself climbed 'Pyramid Gully' IV ** on Ysgolion Duon. The conditions were generally mild due to a SE wind, but the old ice & snow in the cwm remained in climbable condition. There were sunny spells for the duration of the day.

'Ladies Gully' III **

Steve Joynson & I climbed 'Ladies Gully' III ** on Clogwyn y Garnedd. The main icefall pitch was in good condition, but there was a large cornice exit. This route could be susceptible to avalanches in poorer conditions - take care out there.

'Sinister Gully' III **

Steve Joynson & I climbed 'Sinister Gully' III ** in Upper Cwm Glas. The main icefall pitch was in good condition.

'Tower Slabs' II/III * & 'Hidden Gully' II **

Alun, Steve, Wynne, & I climbed both 'Tower Slabs' II/III * & 'Hidden Gully' II ** in the nameless cwm. We had to descend a steep gully (twice) by abseiling from a snow bollard. It was cold & clear for the first part of the day.

'Left Hand Branch' V ***

Steve Joynson & I climbed 'Left Hand Branch' V *** on Clogwyn Ddu. Because of low temperatures (forecast -5°C overnight), the ice was brittle and shattered when struck with the ice-axe.

'Tower Gully' I/II & 'Hidden Gully' II

Pete & I climbed both 'Tower Gully' I/II ** & 'Hidden Gully' II **. A northerly airstream provided cold, clear conditions.

'Devil's Kitchen' IV ***

Mike Hammil & I climbed 'Devil's Kitchen' IV *** on Clogwyn y Geifr. The snow level was down to the valley floor & the ice in the kitchen was in excellent condition.

'South Gully' IV ***

Tim Jones & I climbed 'South Gully' IV *** on Clogwyn y Geifr. There were blizzard conditions when we topped out of the gully.

Above: Unknown climber, P2 South Gully IV ***

'Parsley Fern Left-Hand' II **

Stewart & I initially climbed climbed 'Parsley Fern Left-Hand' II **. We then went on to complete the Crib y Ddysgl-Crib Goch Traverse I ***. There were a few tricky steps when descending the north ridge of Crib Goch.